Surfing for me is at its origins about being present with the wind and water, mountains and ocean, the sea creatures, sun and life itself. It is about a quiet mind and minding neither quiet nor a roar as a gigantic wave carves it’s way with great power towards the shore. All senses on board in balance with what is in the now. It is about sharing the day, a smile of acknowledgement for a swell well timed or to someone joining the lineup once again. Riding the wave is always everything I think it will be and more, as it has ever been when done with the Spirits from whence it comes.
Ho a’e ka ‘ike he’e nalu i ka honua o ka ‘ale is a proverb telling of showing one’s knowledge on the back of a wave. The inner meaning or “kaona” is that one has to prove by demonstrating one’s knowledge and skill, talking about it is not enough. The word “nalu” means not only to surf, but to meditate and reflect, from the roots “na”, peace and calm, and “alu” to act together.
For today I think I will play in my mind on the waves with Pele and Hina and let tomorrow come when it does.
(Really, really, really missing Hawaii.)
Hugs, ~ Michaele